Tall Ships
How can anyone not love that body of water which wraps itself warmly around the earth?
Welcome to my Tall Ships pages – join me on the STS Leeuwin, Cook's Endeavour, Star Clipper, and the Pte. Sarmiento.
My love of the sea began on the blue waters of the Indian Ocean. Since then I have cruised the South China Sea, voyaged from Valparaiso to Buenos Aires and crossed Drake Passage to the Antarctic Peninsular.
I have sailed across the North Atlantic in a clipper and crossed the Pacific three times - but at 40,000 feet.
Five years ago I boarded the Sail Training Ship, Leeuwin 2 for a ten day training voyage up the West Australian coast.
The steel hulled, Leeuwin was built in Perth 1986 in the style of a traditional three masted barquentine. It is 55 meters long and carries 16 sails, including four squares on the foremast.
The Leeuwin's home port is Fremantle and it is affectionately known as the 'blue canoe'.
After suffering seasickness for the first 24 hours at sea, I soon discovered the thrill of sailing in on a square rigged ship and though I would never have made a topmast man, I did at least manage to climb the 33 meters to the top of the mainmast.
One night, sitting alone on bow watch, I witnessed the phenomenon of marine bioluminescence, the emission of light by marine algae when disturbed in the sea. To me it was a truly magical experience. I nick-named these tiny stars twinkling in the foam, SEA DUST.
After my first tall ship experience, I was hooked. Since then I have taken three more long voyages on the Leeuwin and volunteered on several day sails.
I have sailed from Albany in the south to Dampier in the north.
I particularly remember taking the helm as the ship entered Dampier harbour passing oil rigs and islands.
Sailing the tropical waters of the deserted Monte Bello Islands was also unforgettable.
Unfortunately every time I leave terra firm I am sea sick for 24 hours. But as that has happened to some of the greatest sailors, even Admiral Lord Nelson, I guess I am in good company.
Captain Cook's Endeavour
When Cook's bark, the Endeavour (replica) visited Fremantle two years ago, I was able to join the ship for a day sail. Going below decks was like stepping into a past era.
Great inspiration for a nautical novelist!
But with a blunt bow and flat bottom the Endeavour lumbered laboriously out into the Ocean. How different to the feel of a steel keel slicing through the water.
Star Clipper
In 2004, I boarded the Star Clipper in southern Spain and sailed across the Atlantic to St Martin in the West Indies.
Star Clipper is one of the newest and largest square rigged sailing ships in the world today.
At 115m in length she carries 3300 square meters of sail on her four masts.
While the foremast carries 5 square sails, the huge fishermen sails on the main and mizzen, measure 400 square meters each and are the biggest sails in the world.
The voyage took 23 days and the winds were favourable.
Almost every day was spent under full sail. En route the ship called at Madeira and the Canary Islands.
Taking the helm of the 2298 tonne ship was fantastic.
Even more exhilarating was the thrill of a squall which hit unannounced.
It delivered force 9 winds and brought with it the pounding of a tropical storm.
President Sarmiento Frigate in Buenos Aires
Back in Buenos Aires after cruising to Antarctica, I wandered around the restored wharfside and came across two retired sailing ships.
Visitors are allowed on board the Pte. Sarmiento, a frigate whose first trip was as a school ship in 1899.
In its chequered history the Sarmiento has sailed around the world and around the Horn many times. Besides its complement of sail it was also equipped with steam power.
In 1961 it became a museum vessel of the Argentine navy. I spend more than an hour marvelling at the ship's incredible history and its equipment including the medium reach cannons and a torpedo.
The condition of its lifeboats is evidence of the ship's authenticity.
Restored vessels like England's Cutty Sark, are magnificent, but to me are too squeaky clean. For anyone wishing to see a true survivor of the sea then the Pte. Sarmiento Frigate is a must.
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